It’s obviously been a while but I thought I should continue the story as I haven’t even begun to get to the interesting parts.
May 22nd
Buenos dias. It’s early afternoon on Saturday and time for a break. A few hours of walking around the city and constantly being asked to buy something, or eat at such and such a restaurant, or if I want a message was about all we could handle.
Tangent: Honestly, there are so many women asking if I want a message (“massage friend?”) that I have a hard time believing at least some of them don’t come with a happy ending.
Now it’s time for a break (mostly because we’re not used to the altitude and even the slightest hill is difficult). Just a chance to sit, write a little, read a little, pontificate a little, and just disconnect from it all.
The disconnecting part is a little harder than I thought it’d be. We’re in an urban center with all the amenities one would have at home. Besides the internet cafes and bars with tv’s showing english programs I also have my cell phone.
In order to keep in touch with the Missus and let her know how I’m doing periodically I contacted my service provider and made sure my phone would work in Peru for a nominal fee and fairly decent rates.
But the relief and comfort of being able to chat with the Missus has left me open to receiving calls and texts from others (Scott, I got your text and will not be going to the pub to watch the hockey game as I am in Peru. Sorry I didn’t tell you sooner but the $0.50 for the text didn’t seem worth it).
The next four days will be different, however. There is no cell phone reception or internet on the Inca trail and I’m looking forward to it. I’m excited about focusing solely on the task at hand and on the beautiful scenery around me.
But that’s mañana. For another 16 hours it’s traffic and crowds and dogs barking and noise. That’s still part of the experience, though, I suppose.
Hasta luego.
May 23rd
It has begun. Though, they definitely don’t rush you into it. After picking us up just before 7am we drove around Cusco picking up other travelers and the all-important porters (henceforth, I will refer to them as sherpas despite it being geographically and linguistically incorrect).
We then drove for almost two hours along narrow and winding roads till we reached the town of Ollantaytambo. There, we grabbed a light breakfast, bought some water and a wooden walking stick (a broom handle that had been painted and had designs carved in it).
Feeling incredibly like a gringo we then continued driving for another 30 minutes before stopping and unloading in what appeared to be a soccer field. From here on we will be walking.
Walking down the road about a kilometer we reached Km 82 and the entrance to the Inca trail. It also happens to be where the train station is for the less adventurous types (there are no roads to Machu Picchu).
The first couple of hours we covered is an area that is known as ‘Peruvian flats.’ Back home we’d call it gently rolling hills. All in all, it was a very pleasant stroll.
Raymond and I had sherpas to carry most of our gear (we’re on vacation and trying to support the local economy), which amounts to about 15kg of stuff (31.5 lbs for the metrically challenged).
Beyond this the sherpas also carry all the tents, cooking gear (including propane tank), food for 9 people for 4 days, and emergency supplies. Each of them carries around 25 kg on their backs.
Lunch was spent in a dining tent set up on a soccer field that tilted at a very unfortunate angle for whoever was the team on the downhill side. Lunch was comprised of asparagus soup, garlic bread, chicken, rice, potatoes, avocado, and coca tea (coca tea will be a staple for duration of the trip as it helps with altitude sickness and gives energy).
After lunch we continued up the trail with a couple of steeper sections but nothing too bad. We stopped for a short break on a cliff over-looking the ruins of Llaqtapata, which was a farming community along the river.
Our guide gave us a a brief overview of Inca spiritual beliefs that can be viewed in their architecture, as well as explaining the functional uses of the buildings.
From there it was two more hours; through mountain brush and a little mountain forest, through a narrow valley along a rushing stream until we reached our campsite in Wayllabamba. A couple of small buildings for the locals to call home and a couple of flat sections to pitch our tents.
We’ve made camp and dinner should be ready soon. With the sun almost completely down I’m mostly relying on moonlight to write.
Dinners ready, time to run.
~Kbshea











